Phở Tái Bò

WHY I LOVE PHO

Pho has quite a captivating story that entails colonialism, food rationing, & diaspora. If there’s any Vietnamese dish that tells the story of Vietnamese history in the last 100 years, without hesitation, it would be #pho.

PHO HISTORY

[Pre-Occupation]
Pho was originally made with water buffalo. And it wasn’t as popular at the time. It was a regional dish found in Northern Vietnamese provinces. It wasn’t until the 19th century [French Occupation] that Water Buffalo in Pho was replaced with the European cow, specifically in Hanoi. [1900-1950s]
There are many contributing factors & theories. However, there was one main fact that gave birth to Beef Pho; Hanoi was the capital of French-Indochina [compiled nations of Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, & the Chinese territory of Guangzhuowan]. Thus, translating a strong presence of French colonists. The demand from French palates brought the European cow. Naturally, the European cow (as an ingredient) would find its way to Hanoi’s food scene to be utilized as an essential ingredient; beef found its way to be the permanent substitute for water buffalo in pho. Considering these historical contexts & cultural intersections, going into the 20th century, Pho would be an iconic staple in street food in Hanoi. And its popularity was contagious. In the next 50 years, Pho would go from a local Hanoi favorite to a national dish. [1950s-1975]
In the latter half of the 20th century, food rationing was imposed on the citizens of Vietnam, in particular rice. And left no room for other ingredients (beef) as it was considered a luxury item. This “shift in policy” immediately reflected in the way people cook. Recipes were adapted. And Vietnam’s iconic Beef Pho evolved to Chicken Pho. [1980’s]
The International Vietnamese Diaspora community is a generation without. Their generation [birth years: 1950s-1980s] experience severe hunger. Thus, translating into their special relationship with food. In their new communities, they would attempt to assimilate. However, their memory taste of Pho remained. And it was in these expat Vietnamese communities that Beef Pho, once again, had its uprising.

What is Wagyu?

Wagyu literally means Japanese Beef. It is known for its fine and abundant marbling and for smooth muscle texture. Three key elements that make Japanese wagyu so unique are 100% wagyu genetics, special feed ration, and extreme care. First, Japanese wagyu cattle originate from either one of the four reeds mentioned above. Second, they have a special low energy diet consisting of corn, barley, and on occasion roasted soybeans. They are fed for 600 days versus US cattle of 150 days.Third, Japanese wagyu are under the most extreme care. They are brushed and massaged.

What is Kobe Beef?

In 1868, Kobe opened its doors to foreign trade as an international port. With many foreigners arriving from abroad and settling there, Kobe soon became a cosmopolitan town, a veritable crossroads of Japanese tradition and foreign culture. At the time, the Japanese were not accustomed to eating meat. However, an Englishman was about to change all that. Apparently, Tajima-gyu was first eaten in Kobe by an Englishman who obtained a cow from some farmers that was used for farm work. Upon eating its meat and savoring its flavor, he must surely have felt that it was a gift from heaven. From then on, foreign ships entering Kobe port also started to ask for deliveries of cattle and beef, which in no time came to be called “Kobe Beef.”

Wagyu Grades Explained

Yield Grade is the ratio of meat to dressed carcass weight, and is classified into three grades, from A to C (A: 72 and greater; B: 69 and greater; C: less than 69), according to numbers determined in four categories – rib eye area, rib thickness, subcutaneous fat thickness, chilled carcass weight. Quality Grade is classified into grades (from 5 to 1) according to marbling, meat brightness, meat firmness and texture, and fat brightness and quality.

About Bushu Gyu “Samurai Wagyu” from Hasegawa Farms

Just north of Tokyo proper lies the Saitama Prefecture of Japan, home of well-preserved Edo-era structures and Buddhist temples. Amidst the lush mountains and rock formations lies the family-owned Hasegawa Farm, a fourth-generation private producer of Bushū wagyu, which is commonly referred to as Bushu-Gyu or “Samurai Beef.” The cattle of the Hasegawa Farm - which are bred from the famed Black Wagyu breed - enjoy impeccable cleanliness during the humid season - earning the highest recognition from the Japan Ministry of Agriculture - all while enjoying a diet of sake lees, beer pulp, apple peels, pineapple chips mixed with rice bran, and an abundant access to mineral rich spring water. All of this amounts to an umami rich, fragrant beef with notes of fresh pressed olive oil – it simply cannot be replicated anywhere else. With only 350 head going to market a year, it's no wonder the Bushu-Gyu is almost completely unheard of in the United States, and it gives Kobe beef a run for its money at about half the price.

Top Round Bush-Gyu “Samurai” Wagyu is perfect for Phở Tái Bò

Wagyu cuts [such as: NY Strip, Filet Mignon, Ribeye) are in the highest demand. And if you’ve had wagyu at a restaurant, it was probably one of these cuts. However, they are not ideal for Pho. It tends to fall apart. Top Round Bush-Gyu offers a cost-effective cut that is perfect for thin slices for Phở Tái Bò. Want to know a secret? Top Round Wagyu is one of my favorite cuts. Why? Because it has the perfect balance of texture, it’s very flavorful, and it doesn’t break the bank. In my opinion, Top Round Wagyu is a comparable cut to the wagyu loins, aforementioned. Particularly, Bush Gyu “Samurai Wagyu” Top Round from Hasegawa Farms.